The watch movement is also known as calibre. It is the heart of a watch, built with different components to make the watch tick. It all started with the invention of mainspring around 1410 and after centuries of development. There are three types of watch movements in the world. [1]
You will learn the history of all three types of movement, how they work, the pros and cons of each movement.
If you are in a hurry, use the TOC below to navigate around.
All calibre has four important parts:
- Source of energy or power to keep a watch ticking.
- A means of transmitting power to extend the power so that your watch will last for more than a day.
- A dial to record the flow of power for you to tell time.
- A way to control the power to keep the watch accurate and last longer.
Alright let’s begin with manual movement.
Manual Movement (Mechanical Watch)
History of Manual Movement
Manual movement is also called a hand-wound movement, it is the pioneer of all watch movements. It has been the only standard of all watches since the pocket watch era until the beginning of the 20th century. Today, it’s considered as an uncommon type of calibre, but it remains to be the favourite of serious watch collectors and conservative brands.
Parts of the Movement
- Crown
- Mainspring
- Gear Train
- Escapement
- Balance Wheel
- Dial Train
How does it work?
Turning the crown winds the mainspring which stores up power. These powers are transferred through the gear train, controlled by the escapement and regulated by the balance wheel. The steady flow of power will then move the dial hand through a series of gears which allows you to tell time.
PROS
- Holding the watch and hand winding definitely brings pleasure if you enjoy the process.
- More affordable when compared to a similar automatic watch.
- Lower maintenance efforts due to lesser parts.
CONS
- Consistence winding to keep up the accuracy of the watch.
Automatic Movement (Mechanical Watch)
History of Automatic Movement
Automatic movement was first invented by a Swiss horologist, Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 1770s. The invention of the automatic winding system is early but not mature enough. It only became a popular choice after a century. [2]
In 1923, John Harwood, a watch repairer from Bolton invented the Harwood system. It is an automatic winding system which uses a pivoting weight that swings as the wearer moves, winding the mainspring. The Harwood “Bumper” wristwatches using the system launched in 1928. It is the first commercially successful automatic watch in the world. [3]
The biggest breakthrough of automatic movement was in 1948, when Eterna Watch came out with a solution that is still in use today. They added ball bearings to support the rotor, it can rotate smoothly and reliably even under harsh conditions. [4]
Parts of the Movement
- Crown
- Mainspring
- Gear Train
- Escapement
- Balance Wheel
- Dial Train
- Rotor
How does it work?
Movement of the wrist turns the rotor which winds the mainspring to store up power. The power transfers through the gear train and is controlled by the escapement, regulated by the balance wheel. The steady flow of power will then move the dial hand through a series of gears which allows you to tell time.
PROS
- You don’t have to worry about winding up your watch as long as you wear it everyday.
CONS
- It is the most expensive type of watch.
MatchesWatch 101
You can also turn the crown to wind the mainspring for power.
Quartz Movement
History of Quartz Movement
It all started with an order from Seiko to Epson. Project codename 59A, a more accurate wristwatch which was believed to satisfy the need of the 1964 Tokyo Summer Olympics. Epson managed to build a prototype watch to use throughout the event. [5]
In 1969, Seiko launched it’s Quartz-Astron 35SQ on Christmas day. It is also known as the Astron wristwatch, the most accurate timepiece anyone can buy.
The quartz movement was a revolutionary technology in 1969. Nobody can own the patent because it was the result of efforts from Japanese, American and Swiss. This allowed many United States and Japan companies to join in the revolution, causing a huge disruption to Swiss watch industry. Many Swiss brands were forced to sell or merge with others in order to survive the impact. [6]
Until today, quartz watches are still the most common type of timepiece, but the rise of smartwatches might change everything.
Parts of the Movement
- Battery
- Integrated Circuit
- Quartz Crystal
- Stepping Motor
- Dial Train
How does it work?
Usually the movement uses a 2A battery. Electricity will travel through the integrated circuit to the quartz crystal. The crystal will then vibrate at a rate of 32,768 per second, sending electrical pulses to the stepping motor. Finally mechanical power from the stepping motor will help the dial train to advance the hands on the watch and you will be able to tell time.
MatchesWatch 101
You can also turn the crown to wind the mainspring for power.
PROS
- Most affordable type of watch.
- Most accurate type of watch.
- Minimal maintenance.
CONS
- Many feel that it lacks the craftsmanship and history but it is very subjective.
Smart Watch
Smart watches are different from mechanical and quartz watches. Smart watches don’t have any movement, they rely on modern chipset, huge battery packs and a display panel to operate.
Which Movement is Best for You?
It really depends, if you have a tight budget, then a quartz movement watch is the most suitable type of watch for you.
If you like the craftsmanship and prefer something that is more refined or top notch, then mechanical movements is the way to go.
FAQs
How to differentiate mechanical movement and quartz movement?
You can tell from the second hand, if it is in a sweeping motion, then the watch has a mechanical movement. Or else if it is in individual ticks, then it has a quartz movement.
Mech – Sweeping motion
Quartz – individual ticks
Take note that in 2010, Miyota developed a quartz movement which has a smooth sweeping second hand and can be accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year.
What lasts longer, quartz or automatic?
Quartz watches usually last longer. A modern quartz watch has about two years of battery life, while an automatic watch lasts about 48 hours when fully wound.
Can an automatic watch be overwound?
No, an automatic watch has a mechanism which disengages the winding gears from the mainspring once it’s fully wound.
Which is Your Favorite Type of Watch Movement?
That is everything about different types of watch movements. So which is your favourite type? let me know in the comment below.
