This is our ultimate wristwatch buying guide.
The key to buying a wristwatch is simple. Make sure to buy something you like, if there is anything about the watch you don’t like, don’t buy! It will come back to you someday, keep making you regret what you bought.
So I have compiled a list of important things to look out for when you are getting a wristwatch. I hope it will help you to set a standard on searching for the perfect watch and let’s get started.
If you are in a hurry, use the TOC below to navigate quickly.
- Budget
- Which Movement to Pick
- Why Do You Need One?
- Materials Are Important
- Round Is Not The Only Shape
- Complications
- Brand
- Where to Buy?
- Keep Looking…
Budget
Unless you are an Arabian Prince or Mexican Mafia who has unlimited amounts of money, then setting a budget will be the first thing you need to consider.
How much does a wristwatch cost?
You can get a decent watch from amazon at the cost of a lunch, or spend a fortune on a luxury Swiss watch.
So why do watches cost so much in difference?
Well, in general, it depends on the materials, any features beside time telling, the branding and sometimes popularity of a watch. It is almost impossible to get a Rolex sports model at retail price. Not until you have spent thousands of dollars on other stuff that is collecting dust at the corner.
How much should I spend on a wristwatch?
Buy what you can afford, most of the timepieces will depreciate, there are only a few brands, or a few specific models will hold their value over time. Some exceptional masterpieces will even gain it’s value over time.
If you are middle class like me, spending no more than two month’s salary on a mechanical wristwatch will be a good idea.
Get the most out of your budget
I know some of my friends love wristwatches and they like to express themself by wearing different timepieces. If you are like them, then go for two or three watches within your budget, I’m sure you are going to have lots of fun.
For me, I will spend every single dollar into a timeless collection. It’s going to be a 41 mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref.4302. I love everything about the watch, the brand, the history behind this series and all the craftsmanship. It’s so fascinating that I will never get bored of it.
MatchesWatch 101
The most expensive wristwatch in the world sold for $31 million.
Which Movement to Pick
Movement is the heart of a wristwatch, it drives the hand on the face of a wristwatch and powers other features, such as complications. Since all types of watch movements have the same purpose, how do you choose the right one?
Well, let’s learn a bit of watch movement before you decide.
Quartz
They are regulated by a piece of quartz and powered by a battery. They are known for superior accuracy and super long uptime.
Seiko is the first company to produce a commercial quartz wristwatch. It was on December 25, 1969, Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ was unveiled at the price of $1,250. [1]
Quartz watches are capable of mass production at a low price, thus they are cheaper than mechanical watches.
Mechanical
Some say Abrahan-Louis Breguet is the inventor of the mechanical wristwatch in 1810. But Patek Philippe claimed the title in 1868. [2][3]
I’m not sure who is the rightful owner of the first wristwatch, but it has a manual winding movement. You have to turn the crown from time to time, which will wind the mainspring, storing energy to run the watch until the next winding.
In 1923, a British watchmaker, John Harwood invented the first self-winding watch. It leverages your wrist movement to wind up the mainspring, in short, as long as you are moving, you don’t need to worry about the power reserve. Automatic watches or self-winding watches are now the most common type of mechanical watches. [4]
Which one?
Depending on what you are looking for, if you are a watch connoisseur and value the tradition of craftsmanship, then mechanical will be a good choice.
If you just want an accurate wristwatch or something affordable on a particular brand, go for quartz movement.
MatchesWatch 101
In Horology, movement is also known as caliber.
Why Do You Need One?
Wristwatch used to be a time telling device, but that has become the least important thing for a wristwatch. We are in a century of smartphones and every feature on a complicated wristwatch is accessible with our mobile phone.
Wristwatch to me is a way to express myself, to show my personality and taste. One of the most important to consider when buying a wristwatch will be asking yourself, why do you need one?
Timepiece for a lifetime
If you want to get a watch that can last for a lifetime, like what Patek Philippe brand their watch
You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation. [5]
Then I strongly suggest you to go for either luxury brands or classic series from reputable brands, for example Seiko 5 or Hamilton Khaki Field.
You can never go wrong with those classic collections, if you are lucky enough to get the special edition, by all means go for it, you will never regret that.
Fashion Watch
I hardly suggest any fashion watches, maybe because I’m a conservative person. But if you need a watch to match with your outfit. Check out watch collections from fashion brands like Daniel Wellington, MVMT, or luxury brands like Dior and Hermes.
Although I’m not a fan of fashion watches, that doesn’t mean they are bad at watch making. They do play an important role in moving the whole industry forward.
Sporting Companion
Omega Speedmaster is a sports watch, Timex Ironman is a sports watch too, but they both represent a very different aspect of sports watch.
Even though luxury brands market their sports collections as the name implies. But maybe they don’t want you to play sports with that, it’s more of the attitude and spirit.
In fact it’s very common to see a movie star or fortune 500 CEO matching their $5000 suit with a very sporty watch like the Rolex Daytona.
Whereas affordable sports watches from Timex and few other brands are what I will wear when getting into action. As a hardcore snowboarder, no way I’m going full speed downhill with a Rolex Daytona. It’s going to cost a bomb for service if anything happens.
Materials Are Important
Materials are fundamental to making a wristwatch, no one can craft a masterpiece without picking the right materials.
From the case, dial, bracelet to bezel, with the right material, even a small buckle will reveal the craftsmanship behind a masterpiece.
Usually watches made of precious material cost more than a normal watch, and those in gold do hold their value over time. But there are exceptions where the Patek Philippe Nautilus in stainless steel, cost more than suggested retail price.
Bear in mind that materials and type of finishing also affects the durability of a watch. Stainless steel watches are the least scratch resistance and so does the cheap acrylic dial window.
Round Is Not The Only Shape
The case holds everything together and it decides how the watch fits on you.
Size
A common thing to pick a size is to get a small case when you have a small wrist, otherwise go for a big size watch.
But not all big cases don’t fit well on a small wrist. Such as the IWC Timezoner, although it has a 46 mm case, but it’s thick bezel and layout of the dial makes the watch look smaller than it is. If you have a small wrist like me, and you are the “bigger the better” type of person, then go for watches like that, big case, thick bezel.
Check out our ultimate watch sizing guide for more details.
Shapes
Well, there are plenty of choices when it comes down to shapes, while circular shapes are very common, it’s always good to try out different shapes of watches.
Tank case is one of the most iconic styles, originating from the Tank Louis Cartier watch in 1918. Louis Cartier came up with the idea from Renault tanks which he saw on the Western Front.
There are also affordable alternatives like the Hamilton Boulton, or budget ones like the Seiko SUP880.
The list can go on but the most important thing is don’t be afraid to try out different shapes, surely there is a style reserved for you.
Complications
You might notice that some watches have a sub-dial, fancy bezel or numbers of pusher. Such watches are built with different complications, in short features besides time telling.
They might have a chronograph (stopwatch feature, usually on sports collection).
Or a GMT (which provides a fourth hand to tell time for different time zones).
Or a Minute repeater (it chimes the time when you push a button).
But do you really need these complications? Well, the hard truth is 95% or even 100% of the features are available on your phone. But most people bought it because of the looks and the joy of explaining how it works.
And I have to warn you, they are going to be expensive, as for grand complications (watch with several complications), prepared to spend a fortune.
MatchesWatch 101
One of the most complicated pocket watches, Patek Philippe Calibre 89 has 33 complications and sold over 5 million US dollars. [6]
Brand
Many would say a branded watch is overpriced, it’s all marketing hype. What’s the point of buying a Longines Master when you can get a $25 quartz watch that’s better at telling time.
I don’t agree with that, unless you went for a luxury watch like Patek Philippe because they are known for making expensive watches. Or following the trend of Rolex Submariner without even knowing why.
When you learn the history of a nearly 180 years old brand like Pate Philippe.
Or the amazing stories behind the Rolex Submariner line, understanding the watch making process and every effort they have put into. These wristwatches are going to be worth every dollar spent.
Where to Buy?
If your budget is below $500, or even below $1000, sometimes the best place to shop will be online. As long as you get it from a reputable marketplace like amazon, they are mostly genuine and have awesome customer service.
When you are aiming for an expensive watch, walking into a retail shop will be a good idea. Try out different wristwatches to see if it fits well on you, and make sure you negotiate for a discount when buying offline.
There are also online stores that sell pre owned or brand new luxury watches, most of them own a retail store or have been in the business for over a decade. They are equally reputable and you can often find something rare.
Keep Looking…
That is basically everything you need to know when buying a wristwatch. It’s a lot to learn and definitely hard to decide.
Just keep one thing in mind, there is always a perfect watch for you, if there isn’t one, don’t settle, keep looking, you will find the matches watch.
